Hong Kong is an interesting place - it's China, but it's not - it's a S.A.R (Special Administrative Region) which means the PRC owns it, but they get to basically do their own thing. There's a huge western influence since it was owned by the British until '97... but the biggest western influence seems to be SHOPPING.
On a side note, a stranger at a bar suggested I read "Noble House" by James Clavell to better understand Hong Kong. It's best classified as historical fiction. It's a dreadfully long book, but very compelling and fun to read, and if you spend any real time in Hong Kong, you get such a sense of the world it used to be. The book is loosely based on the Jardines and tells a story of one week in 1960s Hong Kong rife with international and corporate espionage, love, lust, murder, tragedy, and fortunes won and lost.
HK is best described as a metropolis like New York City, set in the rolling hills of San Francisco, on an island like Hawaii.
When you get closer to the details - you see malls.. and more malls. Every office building I worked in while in Hong Kong was in a mall. And in those malls, the same luxury stores, over and over, each with a line longer than the next. Due to the tax advantages, the rich from China go down to HK to shop... and shop they do! There are also some great restaurants, of course, but more on that later.
When you need to get out of the mall, Hong Kong is HiKing. The photo above was taken from Victoria Peak on Hong Kong island, which is home to some very lovely homes, a mall (surprise), and a great observation deck. If you go, check out the sub-decks which are free on the level below the observation deck that requires tickets. You may decide to skip the one that costs money, which is much more crowded and offers only a few additional vantage points and an additional 12-18 ft of elevation.
Victoria Peak has a great number of hiking trails. You can explore on your own, or you can look for a Chinese walking group or join a hash (just google Hash House Harriers Hong Kong).
Beyond the peak, there are also the outlying islands which offer amazing hikes and a total respite from the uber-commerce of HK and Kowloon. Also - north of Kowloon sits Sha-tin and a vast array of additional spots in the mountains just south of the mainland.. I never made it up that way :(
These pics are from Lantau island. Lantau is home to the airport, and the Big Buddha.. pics of which I do not have because my friend Kristof has been lazy about sharing them. There is a sky-ride that takes you up to the Buddha, or you can hike it. The standard hike is treacherous. Takes about 4+ hours and includes 2 peaks and valleys. An alternative we took was to drive in a taxi around the perimeter of the island and then hike from the tiny fishing village of Tai-O up the roads behind the Buddha. This was about a 90 min. hike, good exercise, and very fun. Another option on Lantau is to take the ferry to Mui-Wo. The picture above was taken from a trail off the Mui-Wo ferry.
Upon landing, I had a burger at The Bear Bar - fun place... would probably be a blast on a Friday night.
On trail I encountered some long stairways and an Ox on my hike. It was a great time and good exercise.
So - all that hiking makes a guy HUNGRY. And there really is some fantastic food in Hong Kong.
First - just a standard Roncierge-style list of HK Dining Highlights:
Chinese –
- Din Tai Fung is amazing at every location. Perfect Xiao Long Bao (even better than Nan Xiang in Shanghai).
- Crystal Jade is also good for xlb and their La Mein noodles are tops.
- YunYan Sichuan in the Mira is pretty good - although nothing in HK is as spicy as I would like it to be... except
- San Xin Lao on the 7th floor of an office building in Central;
- Dim Sum: Celestial Court in the Sheraton is amazing; Maxim's City Hall is great as well, and a traditional "trolley" style dim sum
- Under the Bridge Spicy Crab - every food writer or show recommends this, for good reason. It's incredibly good. Go with a big group so you can try lots of stuff.
- Yung Kee Goose - another big crowd place, probably a good idea to bring a local. This is a
Korean -
- There are many Korean restaurants in HK and most are very good. Myung Ga in iSquare is one of the best. Sorbal in the Mira is a close second. They have a fantastic cold soba with spicy sauce that I would travel back to HK for.
Sushi -
- Sushi is more miss than hit in HK. In one of the rare instances where Zagat was spot on, Kenjo’s on mody road is by far the best. It's not inexpensive, but it is unpretentious, very Japanese, and very fresh. There's a Nobu a few blocks away, but I'd skip it and go to Kenjo.
Japanese -
- The Toy House on Canton Road is about 8 floors of top notch Japanese - anything you want can be found there.
- Katsu – HIP katsu in the Harbour City mall was my favorite. If you read the Tokyo posts, you know Katsu is my favorite Japanese food.
- Ramen – Ippudo (there are many); or anything in the Toy House
Western -
- CraftSteak and Posto Publico in Central , Gourmet Burger Union in Central, chinnery in the Mandarin Oriental, BRAT sausages (go in Central, not the mall)
- Fancy – Bo Innovation in Wanchai (The chef is a bit of a character and a media whore - so a lot of people are uninterested, but it is a great place, the food really stands on its own with or without the
- Mario Batali’s LUPA,
- Woolomooloo prime steak in “the one” with awesome view
Now - some pictures of food
Yung Kee - don't be afraid of the preserved eggs... they are phenomenal... and the goose speaks for itself!
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